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Reading a Diamond Eternity Band Before You Buy

On a busy show floor, three details tell you whether an eternity band was made to be worn or only to be admired.

The first eternity band I ever sold, a woman turned over in her palm for a long minute before she said anything. She wasn't looking at the sparkle. She was feeling for the underside of the stones, where the metal meets skin. That's where a good band tells the truth.

Start with carat spread, not carat weight. Two rings can both say a carat total and look nothing alike. Spread is how much diamond you actually see from above. Stones cut a little shallower cover more finger; deeper stones hide weight below the girdle. On the floor I'll lay two bands side by side and let the light do the arguing. The wider face usually wins the eye. The deeper stone usually holds its brightness longer.

Then the setting. Shared-prong bands give you more fire because less metal sits between the diamonds, but those tiny prongs catch on wool and hair and want checking once a year. Channel settings tuck the girdles behind a wall of gold. Quieter, sturdier, a touch less light. Bezels are the workhorse. If she gardens, lifts, or forgets the ring is there, bezel.

Fit is the part people skip and regret. A full eternity can't be sized, so measure on a warm afternoon, not a cold morning. Ask how it clears the knuckle, whether it spins, whether stones ring the whole band or stop where a companion ring will sit.

Hold it up. Turn it over. If the back is finished as carefully as the front, someone built it to be lived in.

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